This is the support page for the VapeShell. The page will be updated gradually, as more feedback and inquiries keep coming in.
1. Getting Started
2. Tips and Tricks
Below you can read some really useful tips and tricks about your VapeShell. Maintenance, rebuilding and any other procedure are much easier if you take into account the following info:
There is no need for boiling/cleaning preparation of your new VapeShell before first use. All parts are cleaned in ultrasonic bath and sterilised with hot steam before assembled and put in the box.
However, before using your VapeShell for the first time and after any washing/maintenance of its components, always lubricate the o-rings and the surfaces of collaborating parts, by using your e-liquid as a lubricating medium. This will ensure long life and optimal function of the device and its real time adjustments. Parts like AFC Ring, MTL Air Flow Pins and Classic Air Flow Pins need this, more than any other part of the device.
**No need to overdo with this. A cotton swab is what you just need, to lubricate without excessive quantity of e-liquid. One pass around o-rings and surfaces of collaborating parts will do the job.**
Especially red and transparent white o-rings should be handled with attention while assembling/disassembling, as they are silicon o-rings (thus softer than NBR black o-rings).
The Air Flow Pins
Both Classic and MTL Air Flow Pins are air flow reducers, that are designed to allow setting up the VapeShell for a very wide range of vaping profiles, from tight MTL to open DL.
The MTL Air Flow Pins have an obvious way of collaborating with their hosting Positive Tube hole. Having an o-ring around their neck, it is easy to insert or remove/replace them.
The Classic Air Flow Pins now (the ones that come with the VapeShell out of the box) have a completely different installation procedure. By design they did not allow an o-ring around them, so collaboration with the Positive Tube hole is ensured via friction and / or affinity forces.
After 1st VapeShell batch, we have ensured that the friction between the pins and the Pos Post / Pos Tube is even more intense, to avoid any slightest chance of random disassembly while carrying your Billet with you.
There are two ways to install the classic AF Pins:
1. Apply some e-liquid around their neck (acts as a lubricant) and then insert them into place all the way down, until flush. This might require some extra force of your fingers or using a small flat-head kind of tool, e.g. a pen.
2. Follow assembly steps of the following video. Might seem a tad bit more time-consuming but ensures 100% success.
There are many ways to remove / replace the Classic AF Pins, easiest being to unscrew the Positive Tube from its place, with the help of a paper clip. This is the reverse procedure of installation way no 2 as per above. Just insert the paper clip through the slots of the Pos Tube and turn anti-clockwise. This will disassemble the pos tube from its place, also this way pushing the Air Flow Pin off the tube.
Rebuilding the VapeShell
The deck of the VapeShell is rather big for a BB bridge, allowing many different one-coil setups and experimenting. Here is a quick presentation of rebuilding steps in a short video.
Rebuilding procedure is quite straightforward, however there are some useful tips you need to know before rebuilding.
The endings of the cotton should be placed right above the liquid intake holes. If placed higher, the liquid can enter without any obstruction inside the deck, thus causing a typical flooding and also a bubbling effect.
– Higher VG (thicker) liquids —> less cotton plus place higher above the liquid intake holes of the deck.
– Lower VG (thinner) liquids —> more cotton plus place lower (closer to) the liquid intake holes of the deck.
– Open air flow (via wide opening of afc ring or wide air flow pin) —> less cotton plus place higher above the liquid intake holes of the deck.
– Tight air flow (via reduced opening of afc ring or narrow air flow pin) —> more cotton plus place lower (closer to) the liquid intake holes of the deck.
Pole screws should be screwed down all the way in order to grab the coil edges firmly in place. Do not overdo with this, as this will end up to wear and tear much quicker than normal. Don’t forget the purpose: The wire should have a firm electric connection with the poles. You won’t need to hang anything from the coil, so there is no need to use all the torque of the world when screwing down.
Dry hits? If you are having them, then it’s one of the following: Either too much cotton, or cotton edges stuffed inside the liquid intake holes.
Flooding, gurgling, bubbling? Then the cotton quantity is quite probably too little, or cotton edges are placed way above the liquid intake holes.
In both cases, cotton edges should stay right above the holes.
Not stuffed inside them, or else they will obstruct liquid from getting in the deck with every puff.
Not way above, or the liquid will go in unobstructed, instead of sucking in the cotton.
After rebuilding, use a pointy tool or the tip of your liquid bottle to poke cotton edges up a bit off the liquid intake holes. Example shown in following photo.
The auxiliary 510 Base
The aux 510 Base that comes with each device out of the box, is an assembly of a base body, a pole and an insulator, as these parts appear inside the manual Graph (see above).
This assembly essentially is a 510 adapter to help screw the VapeShell onto any 510 connection, either a mod or a rebuilding base like the Hive v2. This gives you the opportunity to have many additional features, such as testing your coil or help with easier rebuilding. Given the fact that Billet bridges are normally incompatible with the general vaping norms, the Base is a connection between the Billet world and the rest of the vaping reality.